I have a very ambitious and playful 13 week old golden male. He is great most of the time and a typical pup, he is very bold and very sociable, he will charge up to the biggest dog. I love his outgoing character but he is sometimes too big for his boots!.

He is normally fine playing, with the typical puppy mouthing and chewing (not hard) but he sometimes flips when he doesn't get his own way. It is usually when we are outside and I want him to come in and he doesn't want to or if I tell him to stop doing something and he doesn't want to. For example today he was chewing one of my plants again - I said no and he growled then shouted no louder and acted cross then he usually legs it off with said plant or hides in the bushes (this is a game where we chase each other round the bushes so he is wanting to play not frightened) when I grab him out of the bushes he makes a big fuss growling and biting me - he bit me in the face yesterday - today out of pure frustration he ran to the centre of the lawn and started digging it frantically - sometimes he will start biting the furniture manically if he is inside and this way out. I usually put him inside or in a seperate room and tell him he is a bad dog and leave him for a few moments on his own. I am certain he is not at all frightened and his biting, growling digging etc is out of frustration because he can't do what he wants. I know it's probably all just puppy behaviour but his biting me is worrying and he seems unable to let me have the upper hand - it's like he has to have the last word. He is an ambitious pup and I think he perhaps hasn't figured out his place in the pack. I was very upset yesterday when he bit my face (and drew blood) I sat on the settee in tears, anyway he toddled in a few minutes later and gave me his paw - bless.

I love him to bits and I know he will be a lovely dog but I want to get these paddies sorted. I am certain it will be something I am doing wrong and hope you guys can advise.

Many thanks

Oz x

I don't think he is getting frustrated with not getting his own was as such, it seems to be more like he is getting him self over-exited and just wanting to play with you, he is still very young and doesn't know what acceptable play is yet. I think his biting & growling is just his way of playing, some pups naturally play a lot harder than others so it will take a little more persistance to teach him acceptable play. Self-control is the last thing on a pups mind when they are having a whale-of-a-time (they don't know that they're not supposed to be destroying your plants ).

My pup (8 months old now & rather large), even now will sometimes get carried away with himself, getting all wound up. Only a moment ago I have brought him into the kitchen to calm him down as he started to chase his tail, got very exited and decided it would be much more fun to dive-bomb the old dog and bite his tail instead

A calm 'no', is the best bet, any shouting/panic/anger in your voice will only get your pup more exited. And repeating a command can teach the dog that it only need to listen after you have said the word x ammount of times. I have never repeated the 'no', I only say it once and then (if need be) lead the pup to the kitchen to calm down. When he was younger and found it hard to controll his exited nipping, I would just clip his lead to his collar and lead him to the kitchen on that (or it was just too temping for him to try to 'play' (bite) my hand whilst holding his collar).

Taking him to a different room to calm him down is a good idea, it's best not to say 'bad dog' as you put him in that room. Dogs learn by association, any verbal reprimand needs to be done the instant the behaviour is happening, telling them off afterwards (even a only few moments after, while leading them away), will only confuse the pup (and hamper your progress).

There are many people here with much, much more experience than me, so I'm sure you will get lots of good advice.

I am certain it will be something I am doing wrong and hope you guys can advise.


Sorry, but in a word, or sentence   yes!

Your doing what most people do:

I said no and he growled then shouted no louder and acted cross then he usually legs it off with said plant or hides in the bushes (this is a game where we chase each other round the bushes so he is wanting to play not frightened) when I grab him out of the bushes he makes a big fuss growling and biting me

A 13 week old pup, ulness you have started to train and teach him verbal commands, does not understand anything you are saying, he goes purely on your body language and your voice control.

He is happy in the garden chewing your plant, he's having a great time, his owner shouts and then comes after him, you think it's a game, he's thinking oh, oh, mum wants my plant, I'm going to grab it and run off with it, and hide to keep it, it's mine!  You still find him even though he has hidden in a bush, and he knows you wnat to take the plant, it's not a game to him, he is protecting his 'property' he found it, it's his, your taking it away. He's defending.

You need to teach him the command drop, to do this you offer him something he likes a treat, some cheese, chicken? In exchange for the plant, he's then not stressed not protective, but very happy, instead of a nip to the face you'll get a lick and a wag of tail.

GR's and Labs are very boisterous pups anyway and I'm afraid they love to dig!

Distract negative behaviours with something else, bring out a toy, ball or tug rope for a game when he is doing something he shouldn't be, reward and praise good behaviour constantly.

When he does get overly boisterous and bites, scream OW! So that he understands he has hurt you, pups bite their own kind like this and it is acceptable but for us it hurts, you need to show this, not by getting cross he will just think you are being play aggressive back. If the OW! does not stop the behaviour put him in time outs for 10 mins or so let him out if he does it again, back in, continue until he gets the message.

You must always keep calm, never show fear, or anger, just pop in segregation when he oversteps, but he must know why.

Mind games, training and hiding toys for him to find etc, will help you to bond even closer and tire him out even more than his play.

Thank you for your reply, it's very good advice, I am glad to hear it sounds like normal behaviour, though I do think he is cross/frustrated as opposed to just playing.

It mostly happens in the garden when I am trying to get him in and he wants to carry on playing - picking him up to bring him inside risks me getting bitten so I think I'll just maybe say no and leave him there and go inside. The problem is he then gets his own way then so I am not sure that is sending the right message. I can try to put his lead on but he will bite me as I try to get him to the back door.

He is also like this when he is waiting for his dinner (he has dried food that needs soaking) he bites and barks for attention and if I tell him no he grumbles and starts biting the sofa instead which is what makes me think this behaviour is born out of frustration and not getting what he wants, rather than play. It doesn't happen with my husband. For a couple of reasons I think, my husband does not engage with him when he is like this or he just holds his head down against the floor (He is strong enough to do this I am not!) till he has calmed down. In addition I think my husband definately has a higher ranking because he is more aloof with him that I am. I am always cuddling him and playing with him when he demands it and I lie down and cuddle him on his bed so I am often at his level - I know I shouldn't but I can't help it

Gosh, I had totally overlooked the possesive angle!!

I simply campared with my pup who is a bugger for a rough & tumble and getting over-exited & has never been possesive of anything.

But reading you advice Carrington, it's probably the way he has been treated from day 1. I had even drummed it into the kids heads, before we got the pup that 'dogs don't understand words, they only know the words we teach them'

> A 13 week old pup, ulness you have started to train and teach him verbal commands, does not understand anything you are saying, he goes purely on your body language and your voice control.

Since my old dog has gone deaf, I really appreciate the impact that body languge has on dogs (suddenly needing to find new ways to call him in from the garden/call him for food/tell him to stop chasing the cat etc.. without using verbal commands) and this has helped no-end with our pups training. So our pup is taught verbal + hand signals together, and seems to find it much easier to learn, than teaching verbal commands on thier own.

Holding a puppies head down is not at all acceptable, neither is shouting really, as, as others have said, he doesn't understand English until taught certain commands.

To some extent, what your pup is doing is normal, healthy, boisterous pupy behaviour, but it also seems ot me that you are being rather confrontational with him, which is teaching him to be confrontational back, and that is not good.

If he doesn't want to come back in when you call him, that is because it is more fun for him to be int he garden. So you need to work out a way to make it more fun if he coems in. So, for example, instead of calling him in and then ignoring him, play agame with him for a while, or give him a new bone, new toy, favoruite treat or his dinner. (When I say new toy, it doesn't have to actually be new, I always rotate my pups toys so they don't get bored) Don't resort to going after him, it will encourage him tot hink not coming to you is rewarding.

If he is being diofficult when you are preparing his dinner, there are a few thinsg you can do, such as shutting him out of the room when you prepare his meals, or giving him something to chew while you do. Are you sure he isn't hungry? Have you been increasing the amount of food?

After reading Carringtons post, I don't think it's just play, more of a touch of mr bossy boots. But a puppy can only boss-you about if you let him.

The ammount of affection you give your pup does not mean you are low ranking. I give my pup kisses & cuddles and talk to him in stupid baby voices more than anybody else, but I AM BOSS (much to hubby's disgust ) because the kisses/cuddles/food/affection is all given on my terms, and only when the pup is behaving.

> I am always cuddling him and playing with him when he demands it and I lie down and cuddle him on his bed so I am often at his level

If you do what he demands, he will always expect you to obay him. Of course puppies are irresistable, you don't need to stop cuddling him. If you want to fuss him, get him to 'earn it', a simple 'sit' before you fuss him will do.

> It mostly happens in the garden when I am trying to get him in and he wants to carry on playing - picking him up to bring him inside risks me getting bitten so I think I'll just maybe say no and leave him there and go inside.

It's always best to start as you mean to go on, when he is bigger you wont be able to carry him in from the garden - he'll have to walk. You can try to temp him in (toy/treat/game of chase), or put his lead on and walk him in. If you ever say 'no' to him, you must be prepared to follow through with that, or you'll only teach him that he doesn't need to listen to you

> Don't resort to going after him, it will encourage him tot hink not coming to you is rewarding.
>

I taught my pup to come in from the garden by getting him, I would hold his collar, as we were walking in I would say 'in' and give him a treat & big OTT fuss & a play once inside, so he soon learnt that 'in' = if I go inside I get a treat & good fussing AND a fun game = much better than tearing the grass out by the clump/digging for oil

('in' has been taught seperately from 'come' - 'in' = get inside, 'come' = come to me)

Thanks for your replies it is very helpful. Just a quick note in my defence that I only shout at him when he is being very bad and growling or biting me. He is very bold indead and bombproof, after reading Gwen Bailey's perfect puppy it says the correction must suit the puppy a more sensitive type will be mortified with a stern no however with more thick skinned types your correction must be harsher - well mine if definately one of the thick skinned types, he takes no notice at all if I don't raise my voice Re my husband holding his head down - I agree that sounds really bad and in the words of hilary clinton was "mispoken"! What actually happens is when pup is playing on the floor if he really starts to bite my husband he holds his head in place so he can't bite him for a few seconds until he stops. This doesn't seem to have had any ill effect - he doesn't bite my husband but still loves him to death.

I don't think it's possession as he does not have to have hold of anything to do this and as I say he also does it when he wants his dinner. Yes he is hungry as it has been several hours since his last meal however yes I have been increasing his food and he is definately getting enough. It seems he behaves like this when he is frustrated and doesn't get what he wants.

I do treat him when he comes indoors and give him a big fuss - but sometimes the garden is just more appealing

You have given me some good ideas, I will stay calm, only say no once then try to distract him or tempt him with something else. If he bites me I'll leave him on his own to ponder his wrongdoing! Re waiting for dinner. He is usually in the lounge with us carrying on (his dinner is in the kitchen) I feel sorry for the poor lad because we usually eat then he gets his about an hour later and has to wait half an hour after he has seen us pour it out so it must all seem totally unfair to him, I think it is his way of saying come one where's mine. Again I am not sure he has learnt his status in the pack yet and just doesn't get that he has to wait.

I would like to reach a situation where I can tell him no and he stops however, particularly as he will be getting his big teeth soon and I'd like to have some semblance of a garden left He has already chewed the corner off the shed!

We have a Golden Retriever and used to have a garden When he was a puppy he ate all the shrubs and dug holes all over the place, the back lawn was a mass of holes. He used to pinch things and run off with them and thought everything was a game. It's what GR puppies do

One of the things to always remember, and can be so easily misunderstood, is that your puppy will not have a clue what you are asking him to do until he has been taught that a certain word means a certain action is required of him. The word has to be associated with an action and the puppy has to know that association before you can begin to expect him to do as he is asked.

Giving a command to a puppy is the very last part of the learning process and so many times people misunderstand this and thus confusion arises. For instance if you want your pup to let go of something it has in it's mouth don't say leave (or  whatever word you plan to use) to him while engaging in a tug of war with him - he will associate the word leave with what he is doing at the time - tugging - and won't have a clue that what you actually want him to do is to let go of what he has in his mouth. He will learn that the word leave means a wonderful tug of war game and you will wonder why he doesn't give up the object.
You will have to offer him something that is of far greater value to him - a toy, a treat etc - so he voluntarily lets go of the object. It is at that point where you say the word that you wish to use as a command in the future i.e when he is actually doing what you want him to do rather than doing the behaviour that you want to stop and give him lots of praise. You continue like this until you are sure that he realises that letting go of something in his mouth is associated with the word leave and it is only then that you are able to start using the word to initiate a behaviour. It is a mistake that lots of new owners make and which leads to frustrated owners and confused dogs.

Our GR is two and a half now and we have half a garden back now

> Just a quick note in my defence that I only shout at him when he is being very bad and growling or biting me.

Nobody's having a go at you for shouting at him It just really is counter-productive and mostly, in the case of a bold/exited pup will only add to the exitement and can lead to confusion for them. You pup will learn to listen to a firm (but not loud) 'no', you just need to show him that if he doen't listen there is a consequence, eg. he is into mischief - you say 'no', he ignores you, you lead him to the kitchen for a few mins for him to calm down. As somebody else said, praise, praise and more praise for any & all the things he is doing right.

> If he bites me I'll leave him on his own to ponder his wrongdoing!

Perfect He'll learn that biting doen't get him ANY attention

You'll get there, just remember consistency - it has to be the same rules/action/consequence every time.

> Just a quick note in my defence that I only shout at him when he is being very bad and growling or biting me

You shouting whilst your dog is growling is you joining in with the behaviour(the same as shouting at a barking dog) Rather than shout a firm No or other similar word is far better

> Re my husband holding his head down - I agree that sounds really bad and in the words of hilary clinton was "mispoken"! What actually happens is when pup is playing on the floor if he really starts to bite my husband he holds his head in place so he can't bite him for a few seconds until he stops

Pinning your puppy down for normal puppy behaviour is also not IMHE the correct thing to do. We had a GSD bitch who was a brilliant puppy trainer. They were always allowed to get away with much much more than an adult, biting, nipping, fur pulling etc When she had had enough she would grumble(not growl)quite softly & get up & walk away. This stopped the behaviour & I use it if I have a puppy that oversteps the mark.

I am fortunate in that I now have adult dogs who teach any puppy I have their manners, leaving me to reap the benefit.  Not all my puppies had been angels, but I have never had to resort to shouting or pinning puppies down

Thankyou I'll stop shouting, I have decided to put his lead on when I want him in from the garden, if he doesn't act willing, to avoid any confrontation and give him a treat and some fuss when he is in. We have been praticing the "off" command tonight - getting him to give up his rawhide for pieces of chicken - so far so good - as long as I have chicken of course.

This behaviour has also coincided with him barking the place down whenever we go upstairs and leave him ( he used to be fine being left up until a couple of weeks ago - I always made sure I left him for periods so he would be used to it). He is barking his head off now as I am in the study. Is he just being a bossy boots and trying to get his own way all the time or is this the start of seperation anxiety - he seems fine when we go out he just doesn't like it if we are in but not with him - he also barks if we are doing the washing up or some other activity which he deems as ignoring him! He seems to be going through the terrible twos and having tantrums! 

I love him to pieces and just want to do what's best for him but I am worried we should have a little more cotrol over him now at 13 weeks - he is also huge and was bigger than every dog we met in the park today so perhaps he just seems more of a handful than when he was little. He is starting training classes next week so hopefully we'll make some progress.

Thanks again for your advice

> he is also huge and was bigger than every dog we met in the park today so perhaps he just seems more of a handful than when he was little.

lol, I know that feeling

With bigger pups thier behaviour does seem worse, simply beacuse they are bigger & stronger. He is still very young with lots & lots to learn.

The barking thing does sound like attention seeking, and if that is the case it's best to ignore him.

some people advocate a "voice of doom" for chastisement, which is a lower tone of voice altogether. And it does not involve raising your voice above normal speaking level. It works on my 2 20month old Deerhounds, and I firmly believe it helps them understand me better, cos at the end of the day, your pup has no idea what you are trying to tell him, just as we have no idea what our dogs try and tell us (most of the time)

start training your pup too, just as you have started, it will help your bond.

am no expert on labs, but general puppy behaviour is relatively similar no matter what the breed, but at some point the breed characteristics will start playing their role, so maybe the breeder or other lab experts could advise you better??

Either way, we've all been there at some time or another, and lived to tell the tale enjoy your boy, sounds like he is full of character

just a quick question. what food are you feeding him & why does it need to be soaked?all mine if i havehad them as pups are on a complete dry by 10 weeks.

I'm no expert on labs but we have had some complete berk males!! they are totally thickamondo lol and they will play bite, i find sly tactics work fabulously in situations like these... For instance i will bounce a ball they just can't help but come over and swipe that ball and when they do i go off and sit on the garden bench, and they terrorise that ball for a few minutes then realise playing alone is no fun so try to instigate play with moi, which i ignore and without fail it gets dropped in my lap moments later!!

Like all males in life you have to think its their idea to get what you want:-D

Thanks everyone - he is eating eukanuba puppy & junior large breed. I soak it for half an hour before giving him it. Can I stop soaking it now?

Oh well there will definately be no more picking him up and bringing him inside - I have just put my back out! - my husband had to come and collect us both from the park!

hi oz, It sounds as if your pup is very strong willed most probably out of his litter mates he was the most sparky of the butch! Even though he is still a puppy you must not part take in his game of chase when he is being nuts because when you did grab him he still protested and bit you, that's telling you he's trying to be in charge. If it is safe of course I would turn my back to him and wait for him to return to you. After the nip on your face you said he came in and gave you his paw, if my dog forces his paw on me I push it away gently, as I am not allowing them to do what they want, when they want. It has to be on your terms when he trots in and demands your attention try to ignore him, he may if he is rather a bully bark at you and maybe even try and dive at you on the settee its really hard to blank them but  once he has settled into his bed gone off in a sulk most probably you go to his bed and lay with him and give him a cuddle . He may even roll onto his back and show you his belly that's what you want. Try and find a good puppy class for him best to get this sorted before he's a big lad of 8 months ? Patience is the key . Good luck

>when he is being nuts because when you did grab him he still protested and bit you, that's telling you he's trying to be in charge.

I'm sorry to sound rude, but that's nonsense. He's not trying to be 'in charge' any more than children are trying to rule the world when they shout during games of Tig. It's a game - nothing more, nothing less. That's how dogs' instincts tell them how to play - and by their rules it's then your turn. If you don't want to play like that, don't; he'll learn that it doesn't work with this strange species he's living with. Don't expect him to sit and read a book when he'd rather be out playing football!

I have to say, I have Goldens (Isn't he a golden retriever, not a lab?) and any puppies I have known to behave like this (over and above normal pupyp behaviour, which some o fit is) are usually insecure, despite what their behaviour seems like. It often stems from confusing behaviour from owners, being overly 'soft' with the pup, inconsistent with training methods and being harsh with the pup on occasions. I've yet to meet a puppy plotting to take over the world! They don't want to dominate us (especially goldens) but fi they don't think we're their leader, they wonder if they are meant to be hence the confusion.

This explains a bit, and is something I would use with any pup to be honest, most of us do a lot of it naturally withotu realising. Even though it's nto directly linked to the behaviour, I think you'll find it makes quite a difference.

http://k9deb.com/nilif.htm

Do you think he was playing with his litter mates by biting them in the face and drawing blood? I don't think so. After I wrote my post and scrolled down and read more that her husband has physically pined him down and he has not bitten by him.  The puppy is realising that his mum is soft and can be controlled with biting and growling . You seem to think that a 13 week old dog is a child its not it is a young dog. Also... How can we be a strange species to dogs if when a puppy opens its eyes for the first time its subjected to humans from day one surely there imprinted on to us? Its the rules and boundaries they don't understand from us.
I don't know how to answer the point about "expect him to sit and read a book when he'd rather be out playing football " I'm I being thick because I'm lost on that point ? What exactly is that telling me ?

Do you think he was playing with his litter mates by biting them in the face and drawing blood?

I think you'd probably be suprised at how rough puppies do play with their litter mates. It doesn't come to the drawing blood stage because all the puppies 'speak the same language' so if the bite gets too hard, the 'victiom' yelps at exactly the right time, and the  biter learns what is and isn't acceptable and begins to learn bite inhibition.

One of the pups I bred, still only 6 months old, had bitten her owner and drawn blood by 4 months. She had also torn clothes. There is absolutely no nastiness nt hat pup whatsoever, and she certainly isn't dominating her owner. She was playing, she wasn't being taught bite inhibition effectively, and it was allowed to get out of hand.

I'm so surprised that GR's are so nippy! My pup matured very early at about 7 months old does that breed take longer to grow up ? I got a bull terrier pup at 6 weeks and yeah he would grab hold of my dressing gown and hold on for dear life . I don't recall him ever biting me maybe my 5 year old son got it a few times but never draw blood. When i squeaks like I was told to make my pup realise I'd been hurt when mouthing me he would get more excited at that sound? He did have lots of toys that I would shove in his mouth.

>Do you think he was playing with his litter mates by biting them in the face and drawing blood?

Yes - except that he wouldn't have drawn blood because his littermates' skin is thicker and covered with hair, and therefore much less fragile than a human's skin. That's exactly the reason why pups need to be taught bite inhibition - to learn that humans are weedy softies who need to be treated differently to 'normal'!.

>After I wrote my post and scrolled down and read more that her husband has physically pined him down and he has not bitten by him.  The puppy is realising that his mum is soft and can be controlled with biting and growling .

On the contrary - the husband is scaring the pup who is reacting the only way he can. Would you prefer that the wife bullies the pup as well?

>I don't know how to answer the point about "expect him to sit and read a book when he'd rather be out playing football "

Dogs naturally play rough. But they can't learn that they can't do that with humans immediately - it takes several months, and this pup is only a 13-week baby! His behaviour is totally normal - for a pup who's getting over-excited and is too young to have learned self-control. If his owners stay calm around him, he's more likely to  mirror their behaviour and calm down as well.

> It doesn't come to the drawing blood stage because all the puppies 'speak the same language'

Very true.

They also have tougher skin than us. My old dog puts up with (and gives) play bites from the pup that would be causing my hands/face damage, but it doesn't leave a mark on them - they just think its fun!! (it also sounds like they're killing one another with all the growling)

ETA - you got there first with the tough skin bit Jeangenie

> When i squeaks like I was told to make my pup realise I'd been hurt when mouthing me he would get more excited at that sound?

I had the same with my pup, so I used 'no' instead. I think the problem is some pups need to hear a realistic yelp, and I can't get any where close to making the same sound as the mortifying yelp my old dog does whe he thinks the pup has pushed his luck.

One yelp from the dog = the pup takes cover (and the pup is twice the size of the dog), a yelp from me = pup looks at me like I'm an idiot & then decides the silly noise I made must mean platime

I can't see why you would assume i would want the wife to bully on the pup !!
Its obvious thats the last thing you would do in a situation with a feisty puppy. I think pups naturally play rough with each other but not with people ? Unless of course you encourage that pup to play rough with you . I've just been around SBT & EBT puppies and the only thing they do which can cause upset is fly right into your face and can knock your lip but never biting or growling at people.I've never known it to take several months to be taught bite inhibition . Maybe the pup wasn;t brought up in a family home and subjected lots of running about free with everyone to interact with to learn this early on ? I can see this being the case if in a kenneled area. The puppies I had were in my kitchen and soon sussed not to nibble my feet or fingers very early on.  

>I think pups naturally play rough with each other but not with people ?

From all the very many posts on the various internet dog fora that seems not to be the case. Questions of how to stop puppies 'biting' their panicking owners (who think they have an aggressive monster and not the soppy cuddly pup of the adverts) are about the most common complaint people have. Until they've been away from their litter for some time and only had interaction with humans they'll handle them all the same.

It can be likened to the way people know how firmly to hold a child - until they have to handle one with brittle bone disease or EB; the same pressure that has always been fine before now causes fractures or painful blistering and loss of skin. It takes puppies time - just as it would a toddler - to learn gentleness.

He is lovely boy and I am not frightened of him and do not think he is agressive - just trying to get his own way and you are right he is a baby and I am not worried at this stage just looking to change the bahiviour - I have implemented your advice and will no longer get into a confrontational situation with him, if he is being naughty I say a low long no then distract him with a toy or call him in with some sausage. He is now getting a small piece of sausage everytime he comes in the house. all in all this seems to be working and we have managed to stop any paddies. Many thanks

He is definately not scared of my husband by the way - If you met him you would know he's not scared of anything - except the mop bucket for some reason!

He is so funny - he looked at both of us last night with a do I dare look, then grabbed a plant pot (in the house) and ran for dear life under the table - he so knew he was being naughty and was loving it!

He is proving quite easy to train and we seem to have mastered "off" now - just really need to work on the bite inhibition. He was reared in a kennel (was in the house for the first 3 weeks), though with a very reputale breeder who did spend some time with each pup everyday though it is not the same I guess as being in the home all the time so he may be a little behind in his bite inhibition with humans. Anyway I am sure we'll be fine.

Thanks again x

Well done for making progress already

Good to hear that there are improvements. I'm sure everything will be fine - new puppies can be very overwhelming!

My pup matured very early at about 7 months old does that breed take longer to grow up ?

When you look at a fully mature, calm relaxed, good natured GR it is hard to imagine how they can be as pups, but........

They can take upto three years magica to fully mature, all breeds mature at different rates GR's and Labs are so different to your own breed, very playful and bouncy, and to be honest they can be quite rough and full on too, even though not meaning to be so, if they are not handled correctly, it can be very difficult to handle an adolescent GR who is still as playful as he was at 12 weeks, I've seen one or two owners being knocked flying, which is why I would recommend Oz continues to train and get as much help from CD, classes and reading as possible, as he sounds as though he will be a big boy.

>all breeds mature at different rates

Very very true. Labs and goldens seem to be about 2 or 3 years old before they mentally mature - boxers take about four or five years and dalmatians act like puppies till they're about 8!

I agree that Goldens take a long time to mature, especially mentally. My girl is 2 1/2  and she is only just beginning to not think everything is so exciting and calm downa bit! It isn't a training problem, it is her temprement, she absolutely loves and adores humans. Often on a walk she prefers to say hello to human owners before their dogs.

The only GR I've ever come across is a beautiful boy called Leo who was owned by people who owned a pub . Leo would just take himself off walk around the harbour and once he knew where |I lived  which was a 2 minute walk from the pub he would come visit with my bitch kye they were buddies until one afternoon I gave my dog a bone and  he turned up and attacked her for it,  I went to tell him off but raised his lips and growled at me so I got my girl in and closed the door I never did let him my house again after that .
Getting back to what we're talking about age/maturity so why is it that labradors mostly- I know German shepherds also, are the most common breed for the blind ? I now that there fostered out for a year but how long does it take for them to be trained for that if there still immature at 2 ? wouldn't it be better if there sourced their dogs from rescue centres as they do for Hearing dogs for the Deaf ?

>wouldn't it be better if there sourced their dogs from rescue centres as they do for Hearing dogs for the Deaf ?

No, definitely not. Guide Dogs have been bred for generations for a calm, steady temperament. Rescue dogs are a completely unknown quantity, and you afford to take unnecessary risks with a blind person's life - after all, they can't see warning body language the way a deaf person can. The puppies are puppy-walked for a year and their training takes several months more - so they're at about the age of mental maturity when they qualify.

Actually most Guide Dogs are labrador x golden retrievers; very few GSDs are used nowadays. Some trainee Guide Dogs which don't make the grade are passed on to become good hearing dogs!

I wouldn't consider any dog of any breed I know anywhere near grown up bedfore two eyars of age, and not fully mature until four.

I've had 10 Goldens in my life and would say they usually mature at about..........8 years. :D They never REALLY grow up, and that is their charm.

Each of my Elkhound girls mentally outgrew their golden friend so the next generation took over play duties until I put a stop to it when Jozi came along (Ruby was 8 by then) as by then she had a dodgy cruciate and still wanted to rough house like a pup, and Jozi is built like a brick outhouse and doesn't do gentle play.